OCEAN TRAMP – Melchior Magic

Jacqueline Husebo

It was truly exhilarating to traverse the 60th parallel where we soon
encountered the waves previously created by the northwest winds as they met
the waves newly created by the northeast winds. The tempest was surreal to
the new passengers, and many of us contemplated the courage of the first
explorers without today’s technology. Captain Damian, First Mate Naill and
Onboard Technician Caesar deftly navigated the blizzard with steady winds at
36 knots (gusts at 40 knots) and three to four-meter (10-13 ft) waves. The
temperature dropped to -3 degrees with an -15 degree windchill. Watching the
captain and his crew necessarily work on the bow of our vessel with the
waves and wind raging was breathtaking. The skill and courage of these men
gave us great encouragement. Lucy, marine biologist and hospitality guru,
kept everyone comfortable and fed even under the severe conditions. I was
very grateful for the accomplished crew who never seemed to be disconcerted
by any occurrence. We passengers simply worked on not banging into each
other by way of body slam as the vessel rocked us from side to side!
Marine biologist acoustician Helen continued to teach us to distinguish the
southern giant petrel, the light-mantled sooty albatross, the wandering
albatross and the sooty shearwater as they swooped over the waters. When the
storm was finally behind us and the rough seas abated, the White Continent
rose in the distance. Captain Damian pointed out to us that most of it was
still hidden by the clouds. Such an amazing sight! The ice flow allowed us
into the Omega Channel to anchor in the Melchior Islands, but later arranged
itself to block the same passage. It was fascinating to observe how the crew
navigated us through the icebergs to safe harbor.

After dropping anchor and tying up, we devoured Lucy’s French toast and
bacon brunch.  Feeling rejuvenated, we ventured by zodiac into the channel
to explore and to enjoy the outer islands of this vast continent. We found
adelie, gentoo and chinstrap penguins – some on shore and some swimming in
the icy waters. Antarctic terns, imperial shags, skuas and kelp gulls, as
well as Wilson’s storm petrel, cape petrel and Antarctic prions, were
impressing us with their magnificent flights. The lazy Weddell seals
eventually floated off on the ice flow as they re-opened our entrance to the
Drake Passage.

A good calm night’s sleep was had by all, and we returned on deck for the
next day’s adventure. Today we would climb about 550 meters to a high point
on one of the islands. Ready with cameras and muck boots, we followed a
trail blazed by Caesar. As we ascended, the views shown even more stunning.
The huge iceberg near the entrance of the channel was gleaming under a sunny
sky, and the beautiful blue waters offered an arresting backdrop for the
snow-covered landscape. On the way back, we took advantage of the steepest
point to snow-slide down to the bottom. It was an invigorating trek with a
light-hearted finish.

After lunch we visited Alphabet Channel by way of kayak and zodiac. There
were many Weddell seals soaking up the sunshine, and so we trekked across
the sheet ice to observe them, the glaciers and the towering walls of snow
and ice on either side.
As usual, many good laughs followed at dinner, and we are all hoping that
Bassem doesn’t have any more nightmares about receiving tons of
notifications on his phone!

Written by -Jacqueline Husebo
Photo credit – Gaya Mahanama